Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Farewell South Africa




Well… I am at the end of my six week journey in South Africa. The trip was designed to teach us about the history, environment, society, religion, government and culture of this vast and complex country. In the end, I think that what I learned went so far beyond what was “intended.” One can’t help but reflect on oneself and one’s own place in a world that can be both beautiful and tragic. I am still processing what I will do and how I will deal with everything that I have learned, seen, and felt but I know that I need to do it all justice somehow. At this moment, when I am at a complete loss for words, I think the best summary of my experience in encompassed by the greeting of the Khoisan (the original people in this country). Their greeting literally translates as: “I see you.”


I have seen.



Thanks for reading and I’ll see you all soon.
Love,
e

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Home Sweet Home...and Fired up about Education



Maybe it was the last 8 hour bus ride, maybe it was the 3 weeks on the road, or maybe it was the little struggles with laundry and food choices, but we all breathed a collective sigh of relief to be pulling in to the Check Inn hotel on Wednesday (July 29th) night. We all have commented that our little neon lit hotel, while certainly one of the most basic of our journey, feels like “home.” I think this is also due to the familiarity and safety within Cape Town. It feels great to have all of those restrictions on our movements to be lifted, and for us to again have that freedom and choice of movement. Despite all of the time we have spent together, everyone moved out together en masse to get dinner – a testament to the cohesive and close nature of the group.
I went to bed relatively early because Thursday (30th) is the day that we are going into schools around Cape Town. I didn’t know that we would be divided amongst 4 schools, but it makes sense that it is easier and less distracting than having 25 teachers wandering through the hallways. I ended up at the Ode Moden School of Science and Technology with three other teachers. The focus of the school is to direct students towards careers in engineering, architecture, and other technical jobs. It is a comparatively expensive school, with tuition of R8,900 ($1,100) per year, while township schools are R40 ($5) per year and for most of the students, their parents are struggling to pay. We toured the school and definitely garnered a lot of interested stares. After the tour I was assigned into an English classroom where students are learning English as a 2nd (actually, more like a 3rd or 4th) language. The students were in 11th grade, just like most of the students that I teach at West. All of the students here wear uniforms, and it was no exception here. They all wear grey pants, white shirts, striped ties, and navy blue jackets affixed with the school emblem on the chest. The seniors (or matrics, as they are called here) are distinguished by a sky blue coat instead. The first thing I noticed is that the students line up in a single file line outside the classroom door and talk amongst themselves or to the teacher. After a few minutes, they are invited into the room where they proceed to stand behind their chairs. They responded to her greeting with a “good morning” in unison, and to my introduction with a “good morning Ms. Clark.” I was totally blown away with the formality as I am picturing my students flooding into my room and the 5 minutes of controlled chaos that is passing time. This was the last of their strict behavior, because they were quite chatty for the rest of the class. This day they were working on developing argumentative oral reports. They were previously assigned topics, and today was the day to finish and present. The teacher asked that I work with groups to help them develop their projects. The students were excited to have me come to their groups, and it was amazing to be able to talk one-on-one with them.

One of the interesting topics was over corporal punishment in schools. Most of the groups who had this topic felt that corporal punishment should be reinstated in schools to help control “kids today.” When I asked a boy how he thought it would help, he told me that last week one student stabbed another with a scissors for flicking a piece of paper at him from across the room. He felt that the threat of physical pain could have prevented that act, and that even if it didn’t, a person has no right to hurt another person and should be therefore be hurt. As I am shocked, and looking for the right words to respond with I am also looking at this kind 17 year old boy, his hands casually in his pockets, when he just shrugged at me. A look that showed a kind of small sadness and just general resignation to the way things are in his world. There is a startling amount of school violence here. In fact, I have heard several people say “Columbine happens all the time here.” This information is shocking and I hesitated to even share it, for fear that I would leave anyone with the wrong impression of education and life in the country. I share it because it made me realize how long it takes to overcome years in a cycle of violence that was perpetuated by poverty and inequality that still exists today. There are lots of good, functioning schools, but as it is in the U.S., not all schools are created equal. For example, urban schools such as the Milwaukee Public Schools struggle with issues that the suburban schools do not even experience.
As a teacher, I passionately believe in the power of public education to uplift and change individuals, and as a result, a society. It has never been more evident to me than it is here. The township schools are lacking in supplies, have huge class sizes (50 to 60 in one room), and a huge gang problems, all of which partially contributes to teacher reliability issues. Many of my colleagues in other schools reported to us that teachers simply didn’t show up. There is no substitute system, so classes were just not being conducted during those times. This seemed to corroborate a seemingly astonishing recent study I heard about on the morning news: 70% of schools do not have a library, 60% do not have a lab (for science), and 65% of all teachers say they would leave the profession if they could. There is an obvious problem with teachers, but there are also larger problems within the system. The pay is disturbingly low – a teacher I talked to who has 19 years of experience makes R 6,000 per month ($750) after taxes! Aside from that, there are poor conditions, scarce resources, and limited support. Again, in the United States, we struggle with many of the same issues, but on a smaller scale. We too have seen a devaluing of the teaching profession and of education itself within society. We see class sizes creeping up, requirements being reduced instead of strengthened, and resources diminishing as funding and the resulting budgets get cut.
My perceptions of education in this country were only heightened as I heard these students tell me about local gangs in one breath and their plans to become engineers and architects in the next. Their dreams are a sign of a hope for students, who just 15 years ago wouldn’t have the same thoughts, ideas, or opportunities. However, these students are only a portion of the children in South Africa. The students struggling in the township schools are struggling beyond belief. I hope for the future of this country (and ours for that matter) that the education system will undergo huge improvements that will show these kids that they have good reason to hope for their futures.
Feeling inspired to get back to work!

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Toto, I don’t think we’re in South Africa anymore…


That was what I said to Tracy as we were waiting in the Gaborone Hotel and Casino in Gaborone, Botswana (July 24th). As we pulled in, we all couldn’t help but notice that the hotel was just outside of the main part o the city, and then situated at the back of a giant parking lot packed with buses, vans, hawkers, suitcases, various possessions, and people. The lobby of the hotel was dark and smelled like a permanent marker. You know that it is a little questionable when Rich and Kay, our fearless leaders, say “oh my goodness.” The hallways and rooms were covered in this plain terracotta tile and our room had a peeling ceiling from the water situation. Our window overlooked the corrugated metal roof and the only real amenity was the huge pile of free condoms on the table. I definitely felt a little shocked, especially after staying in a string of really nice hotels.
Botswana feels very different. A country of 1.8 million, it is much more “rural” than South Africa. The country’s experience was so different than South Africa’s that it profoundly differs in its history and issues. In fact, the Botswana’s flag has a black and white stripe in the center that symbolizes racial harmony. Granted we were only there for a few days, but it definitely felt less tense. The issues of the country were expertly highlighted by Peggy McClure, Country Director for the Peace Corps.
Botswana has the highest percentage of HIV/AIDS in the world, but has some very successful programs that are beginning to curb the problem. One of which gives free condoms to prostitutes and puts them in hotels and other similar places, AND, surprisingly, this has been partially funded by the Bush Administration (with the contingency that abstinence education would be a significant part of the program). The country’s goal is to have no new infections by 2016, the nation’s 50th anniversary. It definitely is on the right track to do so.
The other cool thing about Botswana: the money is called pula. The large amount of blue on the flag represents rain. The Setswana word for rain? PULA! Make it Pula! Yeah… we are getting a real kick out of that…

From Botswana we traveled to Mafikeng and from Mafikeng to Kimberly. In Kimberly we finally saw the Big Hole. It was pretty big… we had a lot of fun in the refurbished mining town where you can pan for diamonds (skipped that) and play skittles. Skittles is like bowling, but with balls that are similar to the ones used in croquet, and there are only 9 wooden pins. We had a blast, and our cheers could be heard throughout the mining town.

From Kimberly we had a VERY long bus ride to Matjesfontein where we stayed in a refurbished Victorian hotel, which is also the only hotel, with the only restaurant in town.

It was a cute little hotel, and I am fairly sure that we were the only 29 people in the entire place (you can’t really call it a town or city). The hotel had an old Victorian pub attached which was outfitted with a disco ball. They opened it up for us, got the disco ball turning, played music from the 70s and 80s, and even though bar time is 11o’clock, they kept it open late for us. Having the Victorian bar, in the Victorian hotel, in the middle of nowhere South Africa all to ourselves was another one of those moments that furthers my feeling that this experience has been one of the most surreal, unique, and incomparable of my life.

Back to Cape Town…