Toto, I don’t think we’re in South Africa anymore…

That was what I said to Tracy as we were waiting in the Gaborone Hotel and Casino in Gaborone, Botswana (July 24th). As we pulled in, we all couldn’t help but notice that the hotel was just outside of the main part o the city, and then situated at the back of a giant parking lot packed with buses, vans, hawkers, suitcases, various possessions, and people. The lobby of the hotel was dark and smelled like a permanent marker. You know that it is a little questionable when Rich and Kay, our fearless leaders, say “oh my goodness.” The hallways and rooms were covered in this plain terracotta tile and our room had a peeling ceiling from the water situation. Our window overlooked the corrugated metal roof and the only real amenity was the huge pile of free condoms on the table. I definitely felt a little shocked, especially after staying in a string of really nice hotels.
Botswana feels very different. A country of 1.8 million, it is much more “rural” than South Africa. The country’s experience was so different than South Africa’s that it profoundly differs in its history and issues. In fact, the Botswana’s flag has a black and white stripe in the center that symbolizes racial harmony. Granted we were only there for a few days, but it definitely felt less tense. The issues of the country were expertly highlighted by Peggy McClure, Country Director for the Peace Corps.
Botswana has the highest percentage of HIV/AIDS in the world, but has some very successful programs that are beginning to curb the problem. One of which gives free condoms to prostitutes and puts them in hotels and other similar places, AND, surprisingly, this has been partially funded by the Bush Administration (with the contingency that abstinence education would be a significant part of the program). The country’s goal is to have no new infections by 2016, the nation’s 50th anniversary. It definitely is on the right track to do so.
The other cool thing about Botswana: the money is called pula. The large amount of blue on the flag represents rain. The Setswana word for rain? PULA! Make it Pula! Yeah… we are getting a real kick out of that…

From Botswana we traveled to Mafikeng and from Mafikeng to Kimberly. In Kimberly we finally saw the Big Hole. It was pretty big… we had a lot of fun in the refurbished mining town where you can pan for diamonds (skipped that) and play skittles. Skittles is like bowling, but with balls that are similar to the ones used in croquet, and there are only 9 wooden pins. We had a blast, and our cheers could be heard throughout the mining town.

From Kimberly we had a VERY long bus ride to Matjesfontein where we stayed in a refurbished Victorian hotel, which is also the only hotel, with the only restaurant in town.

It was a cute little hotel, and I am fairly sure that we were the only 29 people in the entire place (you can’t really call it a town or city). The hotel had an old Victorian pub attached which was outfitted with a disco ball. They opened it up for us, got the disco ball turning, played music from the 70s and 80s, and even though bar time is 11o’clock, they kept it open late for us. Having the Victorian bar, in the Victorian hotel, in the middle of nowhere South Africa all to ourselves was another one of those moments that furthers my feeling that this experience has been one of the most surreal, unique, and incomparable of my life.

Back to Cape Town…